Author Topic: auto choke  (Read 123 times)

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Offline sharkcontrol

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auto choke
« on: May 15, 2018, 04:04:46 PM »
I hope so i have someone can give me feedback on this one.Second auto choke that i have installed and still no luck.I suspect that i am getting no power going to the electrical choke cable.My question is this,with the ignition on should i not get power from at least one of the terminals going to the choke wiring?I am getting no power on either terminal.
  • Kawasaki Z550/Conti 250/Suzuki Drz400SM/Yamaha XT250/Suzuki Katana 1100


Offline Stanthescooterman

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Re: auto choke
« Reply #1 on: May 15, 2018, 06:25:17 PM »
No, your engine needs to run.
Previous bikes & scooters:
BMW C600 Sport
Kymco Grand Dink 250 (300),
BMW F650GS Dakar,
Gilera Runner 180,
Kymco Agility 125,
Kymco TB100,
Kymco Heroism KH125,
Honda CBX550FII,
Suzuki RG50 Gamma

Offline sharkcontrol

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Re: auto choke
« Reply #2 on: May 16, 2018, 09:00:40 AM »
Thanks for that Stan,you seem to be the only person with a lot of technical knowledge on this site.So i should have power from one of the terminals when the scoot is running?
  • Kawasaki Z550/Conti 250/Suzuki Drz400SM/Yamaha XT250/Suzuki Katana 1100


Offline Stanthescooterman

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Re: auto choke
« Reply #3 on: May 16, 2018, 02:01:00 PM »
The auto-choke get's it's power (AC) from the stator coil, not the battery, hence it will only be active when the engine runs.
The enriching circuit of the carb is closed off gradually as the auto choke plunger extends.
So if you have choke failure, it fails in the "on" position, meaning permanently rich.
If you test auto-choke power supply, set your multimeter to VAC, not DC.
What is the problem you are experiencing?
Previous bikes & scooters:
BMW C600 Sport
Kymco Grand Dink 250 (300),
BMW F650GS Dakar,
Gilera Runner 180,
Kymco Agility 125,
Kymco TB100,
Kymco Heroism KH125,
Honda CBX550FII,
Suzuki RG50 Gamma

Offline sharkcontrol

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Re: auto choke
« Reply #4 on: May 16, 2018, 02:12:58 PM »
Thanks for that Stan.A properly working auto choke should-on a cold start- cause the idling to be higher-enriching the circuit.Whether the choke cable is plugged in or not the revs are not picking up.I agree with you on the stator though, i replaced it recently with a generic version with different colour codes which i imported from overseas and had to email them in connection with what wires go where.Now although the stator is fully functional and my regulator/rectifier is doing its job by converting the ac to dc and charging the battery effectively i suspect that the one wire from the stator is not connected correctly.I also believe and do agree that one of the stator wires have to connect to the auto choke cable.
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Offline SA SCOOTERS

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Re: auto choke
« Reply #5 on: May 16, 2018, 04:25:17 PM »
The auto-choke get's it's power (AC) from the stator coil, not the battery, hence it will only be active when the engine runs.
If you test auto-choke power supply, set your multimeter to VAC, not DC.

At last...thanks Stan. I had it wrong the whole time.  :yes:
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Offline Stanthescooterman

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Re: auto choke
« Reply #6 on: May 16, 2018, 06:27:01 PM »
Your power supply to the auto-choke should usually be green (earth) and yellow (from stator).

I recently came across a (rare) failure, where the choke had remained in the permanently extended position & the carb had been set rich to compensate. I've also seen the opposite, where choke was permanently on and the air screw was turned all the way in (leanest).

Another thing: unscrew the choke mounting from the side of the carb, with choke attached. You will find 3 holes. Though one of the holes you will see the (brass) choke plunger. When the engine is cold, that hole should be open, or at least not closed (sometimes they are not closed, but not fully open - that's OK). When power is applied to the choke, that hole should slowly close. If that is working correctly, and if your carb is properly clean, then the idling should behave accordingly during start-up.
Previous bikes & scooters:
BMW C600 Sport
Kymco Grand Dink 250 (300),
BMW F650GS Dakar,
Gilera Runner 180,
Kymco Agility 125,
Kymco TB100,
Kymco Heroism KH125,
Honda CBX550FII,
Suzuki RG50 Gamma

Offline SA SCOOTERS

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Re: auto choke
« Reply #7 on: May 17, 2018, 11:10:22 AM »
Your power supply to the auto-choke should usually be green (earth) and yellow (from stator).

I recently came across a (rare) failure, where the choke had remained in the permanently extended position & the carb had been set rich to compensate. I've also seen the opposite, where choke was permanently on and the air screw was turned all the way in (leanest).

Another thing: unscrew the choke mounting from the side of the carb, with choke attached. You will find 3 holes. Though one of the holes you will see the (brass) choke plunger. When the engine is cold, that hole should be open, or at least not closed (sometimes they are not closed, but not fully open - that's OK). When power is applied to the choke, that hole should slowly close. If that is working correctly, and if your carb is properly clean, then the idling should behave accordingly during start-up.
brilliant!!!!!!! Thanks Stan.  :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes:
www.sascooters.co.za 
  
In the beginning God made the heaven and the earth. The rest was made in China.
Loncin 150 Racer, Honda 600XR, BMW R1100S, HD 1340 Electra Glide and a Fishing Kayak...What more can a man ask for?


Offline sharkcontrol

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Re: auto choke
« Reply #8 on: May 17, 2018, 01:57:02 PM »
Thanks Stan will check what you recommend and revert back to you.
  • Kawasaki Z550/Conti 250/Suzuki Drz400SM/Yamaha XT250/Suzuki Katana 1100